Jan 112008
 

Yes, I know I said I was going to move on to the clothing, but when I decided to grab an hour this evening to move things a bit further forward, I picked up the first strip and thought, “hmmm, I wonder…”

So, this is one of those little detours that could have proved fruitless in this scale, but I’m in the mood to experiment, and since this is the only time I’m ever going to be painting Greek and Persian armies in this diminutive size, I might as well make the effort to make them as good as I can make them.

To begin with, let me say that this is where mounting the figures on wooden strips and working in production-line method pays dividends. Highlighting at this scale needs a steady hand, calm breathing and often constitutes the merest touch of the brush tip on the figure. Practice makes perfect, and having gone boggle-eyed on the first few, I was dabbing at speed by the last, taking only a second or two per figure.

Making use of the table edge for stability

In this first picture you can see the tremendous benefits afforded by mounting thse tiny critters on a strip of wood. When it comes to highlighting, we are generally talking about the merest touch of the tip of a size 1 or 0 brush on the figure, so a steady hand and calm breathing are imperative! Here, you can see that I’m minimising hand and brush shake by using the edge of the table as a support, with the light from the anglepoise coming from above and to the left front. Another anglepoise is directed from the right rear.

Another variation, adjusting the angle of the strip of figures

The second picture is very similar to the first, but shows how different areas of the figures can be accessed by a simple rotation and tilting of the strip of wood, leaving the brush hand in the same, comfortable and stable position. Oh, and in case you’re wondering, the colour I’m using is Citadel/GW’s Elf Flesh, diluted about 50/50. I’m simply running the brush along the upper surfaces of arms that would be lit by sunlight from above, putting a wee dab on shoulders, thighs, calf muscles and so on. For faces, where I can identify a nose or forehead, that gets a dab too. Do not get stressed about accidents: “paint the unit, not the man”!

Can you tell what it is yet? the hoplites from behind.

Here you can see the finished results, with the hoplites closest to the camera. Yes, okay, okay, it’s subtle, but when you consider how tiny these fellers are, I’m pretty gobsmacked that it’s worked at all, but there is undeniably a shading effect happening here, and my Athenian and Theban finest are coming to life. When I start on the Persians, I’m making a ‘note to self’ about trying a slightly different flesh tone to reflect the different origins of the men who served the King of Kings.

Stunning flesh rendition on Greek archers

And finally, a macro close-up showing the archers closest to the camera, and the effect of brushing along the uppermost surfaces of the flesh clearly visible. As to whether it’s been worth it – we’ll have to wait and see, won’t we? But since this little exercise took less than an hour, I’m happy. In essence, of course, it’s the Dallimore two-colour method writ small. Umm, make that “very small”.

So, next time, I really shall be moving on to other bits! (Darn, Henry, don’t forget about all those tiny toenails…) And I mustn’t forget, of course, that this is just the first of my hoplite phalanxes, with another nine to follow – and that’s before I order some more! (Oh dear, I had a sudden urge to cackle in a maniacal fashion there. Perhaps it’s just that it’s very late again…)

Jan 062008
 

Yes, yes, “where have you been?”, I hear you cry. Well, what with getting issue 10 out the door and having the usual seasonal commitments, it’s been a while since I’ve been able to find the peace and seclusion to wield a paintbrush in anger, but here I am, raring to go.

Checking the black undercoatYou may recall that I had undertaken the basic prepping of my Baccus 6mm Greeks, and the time had come to start bringing these diminutive little critters to life. The interlude had also given me the opportunity to take some advice on tackling microscopic miniatures, as a result of which I was certain that the black undercoat method was the way to go. The first picture, therefore, shows me at my painting desk examining the results of a spray of Games Workshop Chaos Black, followed by a dilute wash of the same colour from the pot with a brush. The reason for this is that I almost invariably find that no matter how thoroughly I think I’ve sprayed, it seems that within 24 hours I spot little chinks of bare metal that inexplicably seem to have escaped coverage. As a matter of course, therefore, I go over with quick brushstrokes loaded with a thinnish wash of the same colour.

Drybrushing mid-grey over the black undercoatThe next stage was to apply a drybrush of mid-tone grey to bring out the detail on the castings, in order to give my fuzzy eyes a better chance of seeing where subsequent paint should be applied! Pure black has a way of making me go cross-eyed when I’m focusing on the tip of a small brush, so this is a variation of the suggestion made a while ago by Tyler Provick. I loaded my large-ish soft brush with Citadel Codex Grey, wiped most of it off on some kitchen towel, and applied lightly in broad side-to-side sweeps as shown here. this is also where mounting the figures on strips of wood really comes into its own!

6mm Baccus Greeks after mid-tone drybrushThe next shot shows you a close-up of the effect achieved. You can see how the raised detail suddenly leaps out in relief and the areas to be left as shadow are easy to identify.

Applying the flesh base colourI always like to work from the inside out, as it were, starting with the flesh tones. So, once the grey had dried (which really didn’t take very long under the anglepoise lamps that I use – the first strip was dry before I finished the last one), I loaded my brush with Citadel Dwarf Flesh, diluted about 50/50 with water. I did wonder about going straight to the paler Elf Flesh, but I want my chaps to have that suntanned, Mediterranean look, so I’m happy to start with the slightly darker tone, adding a highlight if I think it necessary later.

Flesh applied to the ancient GreeksAlready at this stage, I had Pete (owner of Baccus) Berry’s advice ringing in my ears: “At this scale, paint the unit, not the man.” My eyesight’s pretty good, but even with a small brush, it’s virtually impossible not to get paint on areas other than those you are aiming for. The grey drybrush definitely helped, though, making it far easier to identify what should be arms, legs, bits of equipment and so on. So, on went the paint, and before I knew it, I was sploshing the last bit of flesh on the last of the archers. Here’s a close-up on the result: hardly the neatest paint job I’ve ever done at this stage, but of course the effect will be cleaned up as each subsequent colour is added. A good time to take a break. This whole stage took probably no more than an hour and a bit, and that was with tea breaks!

Next time, I’ll concentrate on the clothing elements of the miniatures, before adding equipment and armour, so those Ospreys you can see around the painting table will come into their own.

Sep 202007
 

Okay, another short session tonight to start preparing the 6mm Greeks for painting. I have taken a trio of photos to show you precisely what I’ve done.

In the first picture, I’ve laid out the tools and materials I’m using next to the first completed unit (noble cavalry). There are some 12″ strips of 1/4″ square softwood for mounting the figures, and a roll of double-sided sticky tape which I’ve sliced along its length whilst still on the roll using a very sharp scalpel. Keep your fingers well out of the way! I decided to try the tape as I get fed up with stringy glue like UHU and Bostik leaving spider webs everywhere, and I have had a couple of unfortunate incidents where PVA (white) glue has attached figures so securely that getting them off again has been a devil of a job! The tape is just a bit wider than the wood, so I can do twice as many figures by halving the width of the tape.

Equipment laid out for prepping the 6mm Greeks

Also in the equipment shot you can see the big file I use to level the underside of the bases (I just run each strip from side to side along the flat side a dozen or so times), and a pair of GW clippers for separating individual figures from the strips where necessary, as in the case of cavalry and skirmishing troops. The hoplites will stay in their groups of four. I also have a penknife/multitool close at hand, and a pair of scissors for cutting the sticky tape into lengths. The little cardboard box is used as a containment device when clipping the figures from their strips — without it, the little blighters sail into orbit!

The first batch of Greeks prepped and ready for priming Another view of the first batch of Baccus 6mm Greeks on their temporary strips of wood

Pictures two and three show this evening’s completed batch, ready for priming. There’s the unit of noble cavalry, a unit of light cavalry (Thessalians, I imagine), a unit each of javelin skirmishers and archers, and the first unit of hoplites, 24 stands of four, making 96 tiny warriors. And there are another 11 units to go after this one!

I’m already thinking about the Persians too, and feeling that I may not have bought enough…

Okay, next step will be undercoating, and my thanks to Tyler Provick whose comment has given me some interesting ideas.

Sep 192007
 

After a mad couple of weeks finishing issue 9 of Battlegames (currently at the printers — see the main site for details), I feel ready for yet another change to keep me sane and make me feel as though my personal wargaming targets are being achieved. That may sound like Olleyspeak, but the fact is that I have come to realise that his methods are really quite effective, and as someone who is by nature deadline-driven anyway, I might as well resign myself to the fact that I need to plan and organise my wargaming projects with something like his level of military precision.

I can’t necessarily commit to a certain number of painting points per month — my life is way too unpredictable for that — but I can plan ahead and visualise certain projects bearing fruit within a reasonable timescale, and one of these is the Warmaster Ancients collection that I have been promising myself for some time.

I’m shocked to discover that it was back in March that I first posted pictures of those lovely Baccus 6mm hoplites, fresh out of their box, all shiny, new and densely-packed. So, the first thing I needed to do this evening was just spend a little time re-familiarising myself both with the figures and with the rules, which I also haven’t picked up in months.

So, tonight I spent a very pleasant 90 minutes or so skimming through the rulebook (made all the more interesting as a result of having spent some time with Rick Priestley at GW headquarters during a recent visit) and  sorting out  all those figures again. Greeks first, I decided, and so out came the big file that I use for  the underside of figure bases, and the small clippers for taking off the few tiny tags of metal that were, to be honest, the only blemishes on the figures I could find.  For example, the command strips appeared to have a ‘fifth leg’ running from the belly of the horses to the bases, and the bows on the archers were connected to the bases by another wee sliver, but all these came off neatly and easily.

I must say that I’m really impressed with the Baccus castings. There appears to be no flash whatsoever, the detail is crisp, the figures themselves are extremely well-proportioned (rather better than some recent additions to their ranges, in my opinion), and I find myself looking forward to getting paint onto that bare metal.

Anyway, I got all the cavalry and light troops done tonight, and just one base-worth of eight strips of hoplites (32 figures). Oh, yes, in case you’d forgotten, each of my hoplite units will  be 96 figures strong.

Right, time for bed now, but if you want some inkling of how things might look when I’m done, I came across a very nice article in Wargames Soldiers and Strategy issue 21 about Greek armies, and some of the photos alongside feature some lovely big Baccus units of Greeks and Persians that have the kind of look I’m aiming for.

Of course, I’ll be back soon with photos, as I want to document the painting and basing process, to aid my own memory in the future as well as to inform you. I think I’m going to use a white undercoat for a change, followed by a thinned black wash to shade and bring out the detail in one fell swoop. I think that working from  a solid black undercoat at this scale may just bring about the end for my eyesight! I have also bought a mass of shield transfers from Pete Berry for these fellas, another potentially blinding task that, at this scale, can be done very effectively using modern aids.

Mar 282007
 

There are many people who — often without actually reading it — have classified my magazine as ‘old school’. I’m sure that Pete Berry of Baccus is familiar with this kind of pigeonholing situation, when untutored folks say that 6mm figures are ‘nasty little blobs that are impossible to paint’. Well, there’s something to be gained for both of us, then, when I reveal that whilst I do, indeed, enjoy a bit of 30mm fun with games played by the rules of “Charge!” or “The War Game”, I’m equally at home with other forms of wargaming, scales of figures, and periods remote from the mid-18th century.

It just so happens that I’ve loved the ancient period since the days of, crikey, WRG 5th Edition. Something about the wars of Greece and Persia intrigued me: there seemed to be a kind of ‘purity’ about the fighting styles, and a huge range of battles ranging from small skirmishes up to the famous landmark battles like Marathon, Thermopylae or Platea. Stretch things a bit further into the Late Achemaenid and Alexandrian periods and you have the challenge of huge phalanxes of pikes facing not only the Persians, but Indians too. But it’s the 5th century BC that is my first love, so for some time, I had been contemplating replacing the armies I sold off (at bargain-basement, pre-eBay prices!) many years ago.

Battlegames readers may recall that issue 1 featured a lovely piece by Harry Pearson about his own Greeks v Persians rules: “Marathon 490BC”. The sight of serried ranks of old-style 25mm Minifigs filled me with nostalgia, and I began scanning the lists on their website. But, at around this time, I also met ancient and medieval specialist Dan Mersey for the first time, and we became friends and started meeting occasionally for games.

It just so happens that, like many young folk in the south, our Dan is hampered by the ludicrous house prices round here and lives in conditions more cramped than he or his girlfriend would like. The effect of this is that he has limited space for his hobby, and whilst he enjoys his visits to the Battlegames ‘Loftwaffe’ for games on my 8’ x 6’ table (which can also be extended), he cannot contemplate amassing sizeable armies of 20–30mm figures. For him, therefore, skirmish games with a handful of figures have been the norm for some years, together with some Dark Ages forces in 15mm for DBA.

It seems, however, that Dan had been eyeing up Pete Berry’s little beauties — I mean his miniatures, of course — for some time, and when Rob Broom at Warhammer Historical sent me a copy of Warmaster Ancients to review, it seemed that fate was pushing us inexorably towards our decision to take the plunge. Canadian micro-gaming whiz Barmy Bob Barnetson (forgive me, Bob, it’s a term of affection!) has also had a hand in this: his piece in Battlegames about the Teutoburger Wald, for which he seemed to spray out painted micro-minis faster than a Gatling Gun, showed just what can be achieved with a little application and a desire to display ancient warfare truly en masse.

The final tipping point was Dan reviewing the new Baccus ACW figures recently. It had to be Baccus. I saw the glint in his eye, and decided “What the heck? Let’s go for it!”

So, we shook hands and agreed that each of us would collect our favourite opposing armies. He’s dithering about whether to amass Romans and barbarians, or Saxons and something else Dark-Agey, but I already knew what I wanted. Greeks; Persians; and a lot of them.

Pete Berry wasn’t surprised when I called — he knew I was micro-friendly (that doesn’t mean I go “ping!” every five minutes, I’m not a household device) and that, following conversations we’d had at shows, it was only a matter of time before I succumbed to his wares. Nor, indeed was he taken aback when I said that I’d looked at the Warmaster lists on the site, but I wanted twice as many per unit! “Ah,” he said, “someone who wants to do it properly!”

Baccus Greek hoplites fresh out of the box

And so, when the box of beauties arrived (it’s always slightly alarming, it has to be said, that a couple of thousand figures can fit into such a tiny box!), I of course began with a small parade of the new arrivals. I just had to see what those hoplites looked like, ranked up in whopping Warmaster-size units. I think you’ll agree that, even in the naked pewter state, they look pretty awesome. “Oohh,” was Pete’s comment on this photo, “looking at it, that’s an awful lot of lead! It looks unstoppable, but wait till you get the Persians out…”

Now, as you can imagine, as a chap running a major magazine single-handed, I’m pretty busy, and I have other projects on the go too, so when Peter suggested that I run this as an online project, I thought it would actually be a good idea to help me maintain momentum as I paint the eyelashes on a thousand hoplites (it’s okay, really, I’m kidding, honest…). I haven’t gamed with 6mm stuff since 1980-something, at which point I was using Heroics & Ros, so I have no preconceptions about how I’m going to achieve this monumental project. How monumental? Well, I’ve bought 1,000 point armies to begin with, but I want to fight REALLY big battles in due course, so I’m sure I will treble or quadruple what I’ve got so far.

So, from time to time, I’ll drop in with an update, revealing what I think has gone well, and what I think I could have done better, and perhaps even asking for suggestions when I think I’ve gone seriously astray!

Right, now, where’s that one-hair brush…
;-)

Henry